Installing a New Shower Unit
A successful shower setup needs careful preparation and a lot of work. In many cases, you will require to do three kinds of tasks: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you need to pick the type of shower that you want to set up. It is necessary to establish whether the chosen shower can handling specific systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower systems nowadays are developed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as kept warm water and cold mains).
It is likewise essential to take into consideration the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and exceptionally easy to set up. Nevertheless, although the hose connection is easy, it is quickly removed. Additionally, it is bothersome to change the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The tube and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely cheap choice and no additional plumbing is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers likewise struggle with bothersome temperature control choices.
Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower unit belong of the wall unit and the cold and hot water supplies are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the previously pointed out mixers. They likewise need extra pipes of cold and hot water supply pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. Among the greatest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of hassle-free temperature control. However, it is the most pricey of the various mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system consisting of a powerful electrical pump that is capable of modifying both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water cistern and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated up straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is essential to note that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit permits the temperature and pressure to be changed via a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they remain untouched by other taps elsewhere in use within the family. A major downside of electric showers is that the control knob just permits the option of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is bothersome in the winter when the spray is often weak and the mains water is cooler. However, this problem is taken on in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you want to set up, the shower head need to either be suited order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.
Before starting, it is recommended to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work involved. Furthermore, the drain system to eliminate the waste water will require to be prepared. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will also require to be considered if a rapid or electrical shower unit is being installed.
Use the guideline guide provided with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipes, they ought to be given a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be providing the water (This may need a female screw blocked drain article thread adapter).
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipelines for any leaks, as some might need tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have actually been made (there should be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a higher height (in some cases as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support beneath it-- possibly composed of struts and blockboards. If you select this alternative, the main and distribution pipes will likewise need to be raised to fulfill the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipelines, and make the go to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding preserve optimal pressure and minimise heat loss. Furthermore, by reducing using elbows for pipeline corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can attain this by bending the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or disregarding regional code restrictions.
# Using pipelines that are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipeline compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.
# Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall remains in place.
# Not appropriately aligning tubing into fittings Click for source or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, constantly run the outside tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.